Mileposts: My Old Friend

San Francisco Peaks, Flagstaff, Arizona

My Old Friend

Nothin’ Like ‘im

March 22, 2022

I have never been able to figure out if he is enigmatic or not. Still water runs deep. I guess one needs to sound it. Matters not, I like the look of that water, my friend.  Although occasionally a bit difficult to understand, my old friend is just that; an old friend. It seems like I have known him all my life, and that he’ll be around forever. That kind of friend. 

I call him an old friend not because he is along in years, but because I have known him for quite a good while. He never gets any older. Compared to me, well past the middle of trip but not yet ready for the home, he is young. Hell, his hair is still dark and he uses an alarm to wake up in the morning. You can tell a man is of a certain age, like me, when he no longer needs to be prodded to wake in the morning. But, in my view, that is where my friend is and will always be.

We are in frequent contact, although some times it is just a quick note. Other times we have long conversations. At least we do whenever there is time for him to come by for a while. You see, being young, it seems he is commonly on the go and spends his time in other places. For him, there is a burning need to see what’s on the other side of the hill, around the next bend in the trail. Not that he has anywhere in particular that he is headed, he is just smitten, yea smitten, with the adventure of life. He lives at home like a traveler. Everything is interesting, although not all is pleasing. But that does not matter, because it seems he is constantly up and doing with a heart for any fate. Do you recall those times? When you saw everything through the eyes of a child? I like to hear what my friend has to say when we do get a chance for long, slow walks and talks. And I miss him when he has to take off for a spell. It’s okay. He’ll be back. I hope.

It is hard to be clear about what sort of bin his character should go in. He is alternately analytical and poetic. A scientist at heart and by training, he waffles between the right and left sides of his brain. I bet it is noisy in his head. A constant balancing act of the elements of his character. But I think it is a good thing. Well suited for a scientist who, as Ed Abbey described, can communicate to the rest of us his sense of of love and wonder at what his work discovers. I’d say he is in a sweet spot. I like him and I like people that are themselves like him. Of course, he can be difficult. Honest, but sometimes uncomfortably blunt and does not suffer fools gently. Although never intentionally mean, his bullshit meter often pegs the limit of the scale and inevitably some smart-ass remark issues forth. Sic semper tyrannis, as it were. His physical presence amplifies that which is within. Tall, but not what you would call large, he can loom over things in the way I imagine Abe Lincoln did, with his head sticking up above the average crowd. And, too, you have to know that he has a large head with a lot of real estate on the front side. Like me, he does not have a forehead, he has a five-head. Mix in a slightly nasal, not particularly low voice and he can present as a cartoon character. Sort of a Jughead from the old Archie and Friends comic books my sister used to read. Basically slow of movement, he is largely unthreatening, generally interesting, and routinely obnoxious. Never a dull moment.

I am warmed by descriptions of his times, observations and experiences. His is clearly a time of regretting the need to put things down for the night and an eager anticipation, but not expectation, of the next day’s efforts. I envy him that. His responsibilities are few beyond the need to feed himself and maintain a decent shelter. Most all else is negotiable and he travels light. Wise fellow. So it would seem that he spends most of his time in the present moment. Funny isn’t it, how a young fellow can know how to do what the monks of Asia have pursued for millennia? 

Sometimes he describes his days in a way that makes them seem filled with magic and mystery. Like when he was in the desert of northern Arizona, out near a town on the Navajo Reservation called Moenkopi. Lots of fine red sand and sparse vegetation. The surface of the sand was blown smooth by the wind, with the hypnotic, symmetric ripples in its surface that only the wind can produce. Superimposed on this virgin surface, that seemed as timeless as eternity, were small, indeed tiny, dimples. You could imagine them looking like what would happen if you poked the surface of smooth sand with a sewing needle. That tiny. And symmetrically paired. He tells me of how he marveled and wondered, standing there in the still silence. Dropping to his knees he gazed along the trace of what now were clearly tracks. Following slowly along their course, he came to the bug, a beetle. Perhaps one half inch, or slightly more, in length. Now on his belly, he watched at eye level as this critter made its way to wherever its business was taking it. I can feel it as he describes the moment. All time had stopped. The entire universe was in that patch of sand beside the creosote bush. No yesterday, no tomorrow. Nothing else required attention but the beetle and the trail it left. And the sand would itself be blown clean again by the wind before the sun set. Rinse and repeat the next day, forever. Hearing him tell of the moment makes me jealous. Not just to be in that place, but in that state of mind. Kinda foreign to me in my later years and seems like something I have forgotten how to do. Rejoicing with every moment, hopeful for the next, and unworried about the past. Kinda like a dog I suppose. What do you mean I was bad? That was yesterday, this is today. What are we gonna do? Can we eat? I like to eat. No?, Then let’s play. Go pee. Take a nap.

With the beetle story, and many others, my friend provides me with a perspective on my own present state that can be both depressing and transformational. That’s what friends are, in part, for. My position on my own uni-directional time line becomes clearer. His friendship is a great gift. I wish I could tell him just what he means to me. But I think he knows. It is much easier for him to express himself to me than me to him. It’s an age thing and hard to explain.  The old space-time continuum conundrum.

It is in the fall of most years, that he seems to find the time to visit for a relatively extended stay. Although I have things to do everyday, we find time to share for a couple of weeks when the color of the sun on the landscape begins to grow warmer with its lower position on the horizon. The days are a bit shorter, and the breeze carries a subtle crispness and clarity. In my drifting imagination I irrationally think it smells like Canada. Perhaps the air has traveled from there? No matter. I hear his tales, the excitement in his voice, watch the spark in his eye and the spring in his step. We speak of places we have both visited, how they have changed, how we too have changed. And we laugh, and smile, and feel a warmth that is not expressed in words but, like the invisible rays from a campfire, is deeply felt and comforting. Our time is easy and always passes too quickly. But he will be back. And I will be waiting. Always waiting.


Mileposts: Who?

San Francisco Peaks, Flagstaff, Arizona (courtesy of Kirk Anderson)

Who?

Gratitude for Youth Well Spent

December 7, 2021

December 7, 1984 – a date that will live in infamy, nay, memory – we were suddenly and deliberately attacked by the love of life and the invincibility of youth. We were filled with multitudes and every moment vibrated with energy and promise.

It was a  Friday in the greatest of all my autumns. Another day of listening for the secret and searching for the sound. We were cash-poor, thin and almost always hungry. For the next meal, for the next moment. Blessed beyond words.

Another unremarkable, cheap, camp-style, long-forgotten dinner before the main event. We were out to see what might be around the next bend. Sangre del Toro y el camino Woody Mountain. The sun had  gone after its short work day. Left to us was the cold invigorating snow of early December and the call of the unseen. Get on with it! Into the truck, away from Humphreys Street, onto the westward, mythic, Route 66, and out of reach of the built world. Go around that bend!

Still silence under starry sky. Alone together, we were but a small speck on this large spinning wet rock we call home. Our only home. Earth! Beautiful. With my dearest dog-friend Hiyah (The Bonehead), known to some as Hat-bo, we trudged through crusted snow. Rhythmic steps carried us away from the truck, alway from the road, away from the established, to a small wooded rise across open ground to the north. It was a short walk. So quiet there was no room for sound.

Stiff pulling of the cork with the Swiss army screw and blood of the bull flowed into our sierra cups. Salute! Twenty-seven trips around the sun for you my friend, and counting. Good ones, less good ones, but none thrown away. And the expectation of only good ahead. Laughter, more wine until gone and then, in drunken joy, we count our change and make the trip back into town to retrieve an encore bottle. The energy of youth! The joy. The blissful stupidity and celebration of perfect moments. We returned to our retreat on the rise.

Laughter and chatter slow to stopping. Full of wonder, wonderful. The stars screamed down in beauty. Who could be happier?

Who?

The sound, the call across the infinite darkness. Mysterious eternity.

Who?

You! Us! Everything! Cosmic connection with the heard but unseen. Good omen; greeted by an owl, the symbol of wisdom, magic and mystery, bringing good fortune. Is there anything else in the universe but this place? This moment? Piercing. We call back.

Who?

Who!!!

Later, in warmer times of spring and summer along Woody Mountain Road, perspective is revealed. Our wooded rise retreat is something of an island on the margin of a lake. The crossing to our small, short-term winter portal to the infinite might have been much wetter had we broken through the ice. But it was not. It was, and forever became, a youthful Nimoy-esque perfect moment that was had, but preserved only in memory. Sweet memory.

Who can forget such things? Who cannot be touched? Who can say what is beyond the next bend? Who can avoid being grateful for such connection, friendship and the pursuit of unseen, unexpected wonders and moments?

Who?

The Green World: It Comes Back

Sunset clouds. Loveland, Colorado

It Comes Back

Nature Bats Last

May 3, 2021

The forecast called for rain. This suggested that it would be a good day to wander into Young Gulch. I’d meant to go back here for quite a long time, having been an even longer time since I was last there. But I had been looking at it on a map for many months, as we all slogged through the pandemic year of 2020. I rarely hear anyone speak or write of Young Gulch. I took the promise of rain as added insurance for a quiet, distraction free walk beyond the end of the pavement.

Young Gulch is in the canyon of the Cache la Poudre river, in northern Colorado. “The Poudre” is the only designated National Wild and Scenic River in Colorado. This seems surprising for a state that sheds so much water and is generally wild and scenic. But that is the fact and it is well deserved.

A hike in Poudre canyon leaves the river bottom and soon starts going uphill. Against the runoff of summer rain that has fallen, and against the annual winter snow melt. The hills are in front of you. And within many side drainages, like Young Gulch, is the trace of past fire that, like your trail, runs uphill. Your reaction may swing from shock and horror, to wonder and mystery, to subtle joy.

In June of 2012 a natural lightning strike initiated what became called the High Park fire. The rapid spread of the flames consumed parts of both the Green and Built Worlds. In time it would become the second largest fire in Colorado history at the time. North by northwest from my home, the prevailing winds brought smoke and ash. There was no fly fishing on the Poudre that summer, and daily breathing was uncomfortable.

This cloudy May day I strolled up the trail with my hands in the pockets, waiting for the promised rain. Burned Ponderosa Pine trees stood like black totems. Many had broken tops. At ground level, there was no clutter. Water raged and made a great noise along the creek’s path, shedding melting snow. There is little bird activity, no squirrels in sight. I am alone. But it feels right; everything in its place.

Pockets of green Ponderosa Pine branches are present, spreading above small perennials. Small shrubs are back for another go. And on the floor, mixed in among the dropped needles and cones, were small sprigs of green. A gentle breeze shuffled through. Fragments of ancient rock lay about as decoration. throughout, small gardens of Pasqueflower. The small, colorful, early season beauties stood out against the otherwise mostly brown and widely scattered small flecks of green. Fire had consumed and swept away much. But something was happening. Another generation, another growth was coming on. Ever persistent. It felt really good to see the annual rebirth, surely stronger with every year, reclaiming it place in the natural succession. It comes back. Again.

Pasqueflower and rocks. Young Gulch, Colorado

This day, in Young Gulch, I am in the lower reaches of the Poudre watershed. Still waiting for the rain. Looking at charred trees, I drift back in my mind to the previous pandemic summer. Fire had returned to the delightful Poudre. They called it the Cameron Peak fire, named for a landmark in the highest reaches of the canyon that was the source. There still is no official cause announced. But the area of its origin is in a popular camping area of the forest and makes me feel like humans had hand a hand in this. I hope I am wrong.

The Cameron Peak blaze surpassed the High Park to become the largest in Colorado history. It too consumed the Green and Built Worlds, causing the evacuation of many people. This included the town of Estes Park in the Big Thompson river drainage to the south. It was all very unsettling, and came within ten miles of my home. But we seemed safe enough, protected by hogback ridges. Easily uneasy. Then, while Cameron Peak raged, fire broke on the west side of the Continental divide. It spread with force and speed and was definitely human-caused. A great deal of Rocky Mountain National Park burned. The view from my back garden was a scene from the twilight zone, an orange image from a war torn world. The air was unbreathable, the ash abundant. Turbulent times.

Smoke and ash from 2020 fires. Loveland, Colorado

But as Solomon’s advisors counseled,

“This too shall pass.” 

Absolute truth. And the blooms of Pasqueflower signal a new day. A new forest coming that I will never see. A hope for the cycle anew.

Hours and miles later I return to my car. Head on back home. It’s hard not to ponder what seems to be an ever increasing frequency of the fires here in the western US. Or not worry about the their growing intensity. And what of declining snowfall and the resulting diminished supply of water? I fret that we are doing much of this to ourselves in the name of expand or expire economics. The bottom financial line.

But the vision of tender, colorful Pasqueflowers pops in and out of my mind. The renewing green forest in response to fires. And I somehow know that the Green World will indeed survive. It will go on. But will we? Will humans continue their ways much longer? I am  uncertain.

Nature bats last.

Outings: The Devil’s Backbone

The Devil’s Backbone

The Devil’s Backbone

Reckoning and Recollection

March 28, 2021

Once flat sandstones and shales west of today’s Loveland, Colorado, were long ago rumpled up by the rising Rocky Mountains into a series of waves. Like a rug you accidentally slide across the floor into a wall. Unlike the rug, the tops of the rock waves weathered away over long time, leaving behind a series of wonderful ridges and valleys. The Devil’s Backbone Open Space lies within this terrain. Only 10 minutes from my home, I often go to this place to stretch my legs and my mind. Lacking strenuous paths, but celebrating an open sky, it is a walking meditation in the offing.

Here, as distance grows from the car park, I enjoy long walks kept company by the abundant rocks, sparse grasses, shrubs and occasional small pine tree. Well laid out, the area offers a sequence of three loops in series. Walk as far and as long as you like. The loop closest to the car park, Wild Loop, is visited on the week ends by many people with children and dogs. It is heartening to see them all out, but I normally beat feet to the two outer loops, the Hunter and Laughing Horse. My mind does not readily clear in the presence of others. It is only during the empty mid-week that I will saunter along the entire, close in, Wild Loop. But I do make the time to walk this  loop, and come right up to the very ridge known as the Devil’s Backbone, protruding straight up into the air. On late summer afternoons, I have often walked to and sat along this stretch listening to the cascading song, always downward  and never upward, of Canyon Wrens. It is a magical sound bouncing off the rocks into the surrounding silence and late day shade.

I first heard Canyon Wrens many years ago in the red rock canyon country of southeast Utah. Then, in the back of beyond in Bown’s Canyon, far past the end of any road, I spent a week locating and sampling remote springs and seeps for chemical analysis. This was background work for the National Park Service and was the project of my now wife of 36 years. Remote and quiet, in the cooler reaches of the the main and side canyons, the wrens would sing their song to no one. For anyone. The perfect pitch, their notes resonate and carry. And at the Devil’s Backbone they bring to mind great, comforting thoughts of long ago adventure. Because I am just that way, it seems so appropriate that they should sing here at the Backbone, among rock types that are also present some 300 miles away in Utah’s canyon country. The grand scale of geology.

Trail along Hunter Loop.

Lacking much in the way of shade, the Devil’s Backbone provides much needed winter time wandering. When, that is, there has not been recent snow that muddies the trail, and in some places creates snow pack with slippery footing. But that is rare and it is routinely possible to venture out. There is a particular section of ridge comprised of the Fountain Formation, a sandstone with large pebbles in it, that is my winter time haven. The ridge is sharp, and the sand weathers slowly from the rock, building a fine seat at its base. The remaining rock provides a perfect backrest. On a winter’s afternoon, the two mile saunter to this location provides just the right amount of walking to drift into poorly lit corners of my head. I can arrive in the perfect mood to sit comfortably. I look to the west at  Mt. Chiquita (13,100 elevation), Mt Ypsilon (13,500), and Long’s Peak (14,300) a bit to the south. All are only about 25 miles away as the crow flies. With high hills between them and me, only their snowy summits are seen. My seat faces generally southwest and in the winter afternoon, when the clouds stay away, the low sun warms me perfectly. The ridge to my back and surrounding shrubs keep me from direct wind. There is no one but me. Slight paths traveled by deer, who leave their usual calling card on the ground of small scattered dark pellets, pass closely by. A personal oasis. I read. I write. I snack and I nap. Blissfully. Eventually, I get up and move on. There are some other rocks and isolated vistas I need to inspect.

Things change slowly here, and vary a bit through the seasons. The rock alters little, but occasionally shows new tire marks or the scrape of a pedal from a mountain bike. Yes, there is some bike traffic here, but it is not troublesome and most, but definitely not all, riders are friendly and courteous. But perhaps that is because I am 6’5” and 205 pounds, affording me consideration that would be denied others. No matter. My walk is good. In winter, the grasses are dead and brown, the shrubs bare. When I return in spring, green will rule the day and small flowers will color small nooks and crannies in the rock. There are many such small gardens along this way that I have dutifully inspected for the past 17 years. I find it remarkable how little they grow or shrink in size, despite the variable water supply from year to year. Very stable. Seems like there is a lesson in there somewhere about balance. And the lesson concerns the Built World relative to the Green, and the equilibrium they seem these days to be unable to achieve to produce a sustained, perpetual, mutually respectful existence.

On a recent walk, the first in a good bit to the far back of the Laughing Horse loop, I came across a freshly cut dirt road. It was just outside the open space boundary, leading to a hilltop location for a remarkably large house. Someone obviously thinks rather well of themself. I was irritated, as I always am, with this kind of thing. I understand it is a great view. But it just seems so very impractical and self-serving. A needless and inappropriate intrusion into an ever dwindling footprint of undisturbed land. In fact, the open space was established, in part, to recover some of that openness once lost. I will not judge this homeowner, but I will not support or compliment them either. Given the chance, I will oppose such behavior. Selfish and needless. There are better, more practical places down in the valley where other settlers have established their luxury homesteads. All along the margin of the open space, there are homes. Most are at a respectable distance, and although still exorbitant to my way of thinking, establish a tolerable balance between the Green and Built worlds. I stride past the disturbance and offer a gesture my Mom would not be proud of.

Having turned the farthest loop, I leisurely walk back in the general direction of the car park. Passing across a grass-filled ridge, I pause to look for the hunting blind I’ve read about, constructed of rock by indigenous peoples (Utes I believe) long, long ago. Although I have looked for many years, I have yet to see it. Perhaps someday. Perhaps not. Circling the southern limb of the Hunters loop, I pass a slight path unseen and undetected by anyone but me. I passed here four years ago on my birthday and my mobile phone rang. I had, uncharacteristically, forgotten to turn it off (although I always carry it with me). It was my Dad. He was ailing but, as usual, was calling to say Happy Birthday. This year he added that he had just that day checked into hospice and that this would be the last birthday call from him. I sat gently on a rock, looked out over a near timeless scene that the Utes looked at so long ago in their search for food. I spoke with the man who provided my food for so many years. He had given me more than I could ever give back to him. I told him this one time and his guidance was “do it for your son.” But on that rock, that day, I relished, savored, and celebrated every heart-wrenching moment of that call. I heard every inflection in his voice. I wrapped myself in the frequent and long pauses that were a centerpiece of his everyday speech. He said “Happy Birthday. I love you and am proud of you.” I told him I loved him. We hung up, never spoke again, and he died a few days later. March 28, 2017.

Garden and rock along the Laughing Horse Trail.

I stop by the spot where my Dad and I said our final farewell at least once a year. I sit on that same rock for a short time and replace a couple of the tears I left there on that last day. Tears that have since been carried away by the winds. They are tears of gratitude, of simple remembrance, of change, of love and respect. The pain has become smaller, the change becoming more familiar. And the deep sea of time from the Ute hunters of long ago, through to my Dad, to me, going on and on and on without any of us, colors the space where I keep Dad’s memory, and is humbling. 

A gentle, light, fatigue hints at my legs and my mind slips into step with the simply rhythm of my boots lightly crunching small bits of rock on the trail. Walking back to the car park there is commonly little thought. I acknowledge the shrubs, sitting in place day after day, year after year, sun, rain, and snow. Brush their outer branches with my fingertips and the palm of my hand. Howdy friends. Quiet inside and out. Along my path, I shined some light into dark corners inside my head. And like the kitchen of my low rent graduate school days, watch the mental cockroaches run for cover from the illumination. With enough walks perhaps I’ll run them all off for good. Not too sure about that. Eventually, the car park comes into view, the number of people increase, along with a few bits of litter and a dog turd or two. There is the clutter, confusion, and the stinking breath of the cars jostling for position. But it is all okay. I’m carrying calm secrets and a sense of the larger, Green World and its gentle, quiet persistence. I’ll be back soon, to walk, to reckon, and recollect.

ASOWYA: Know it When You Feel It

Redwoods, Crescent City, California

Know It When You Feel It

ASOWYA

March 11, 2021

At different points along the trail in this life, you may find that you will, with no intention, gain a sense of where you are.

ASOWYA. A Sense of Where You Are. The Sense.

For me it is not only my specific place on a map, but my place in time, in view of where I have been and where I hope to go. It is close to that odd sensation of having been in a given place or situation before, as though in a dream. 

Déjà vu. 

But it is more than the moment being familiar, it is the significance of the moment in the context of everything I have ever known and ever hope to know. The sense is not particularly intellectual, offering contemplation. It is rather fleeting really. It’s just a sense of moving along my path, and also if that path has heart. You know it when you feel it.

Since about the age of nineteen or twenty I have loved being outside and walking real, tangible paths. This, more than anything else, has brought me the most happiness and kept me as sane as is possible. And the debate rages as to just how sane I am or am likely to be. I also like walking a path as a metaphor for passing through this mortal world. The ultimate thru hike. The grand adventures that spring up and make me glad I am alive. The others that cause me to wonder if the discomfort is temporary and an inevitable short term reality to push through, or if I should make a course correction. And for me, this is where ASOWYA creeps in telling me something, in an intuitive way, about the path I am traveling.

When everything resonates, I feel energetic, aware and blessed. In the zone, as it were. I eagerly look toward the next stretch of trail. Alternatively, when it feels I have somehow gotten off the path with heart, it is damned tough slogging. Sadly, it is seldom possible really, to go back to where I made the misstep. It is in another time. Passed. I bet you know what I mean. Perhaps I can bushwhack along a changed trajectory to regain what was once abandoned? Hard work, but perhaps necessary? 

Regardless, I try to be mindful of it. And this blog intends to offer the simple-minded musings that come my way as I alternately saunter, spring and crawl my way through paths real and intuitive. Perhaps mostly for my own entertainment and therapy. Perhaps a genuine nugget will show up. Dunno. I’ll see where the path leads as I go along.

Happy trails!

ASOWYA: A Sense of Where You Are

Big Bend National Park, Texas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ASOWYA: A Sense of Where You Are

February 19, 2021

“Where am I?

“Right here, directly above the center of the Earth.”

“But that is where I always am.”

“Yes, but it is where you are.”

“There must be more to it than that!”

“True, there are many things that fix one’s position. Some surround us, and some are within us.”

“Is that really something that can be clear? At all times?”

“No, but you can have a sense of where you are.”

“That sounds wise.”

“It is, but it is not from me. Bill Bradley, a prophet from the hardwood floors, a basketball player, observed 

‘When you have played basketball for a while, you don’t need to look at the basket when you are in close like this, you develop a sense of where you are.’ 

This is so wise that John McPhee, the legendary writer, used this as the title of a book about Bradley.”

“So this sense of where you are can be learned?”

“Not learned so much as cultivated. Through time and observation, it becomes intuitive, and with close inspection yields details as grains of truth.”

“Then it is worth paying attention.”

“It is.”

The Trailhead

Bobcat Ridge, Larimer County Colorado

February 12, 2021

Standing at the trailhead, making last minute preparations for this exploration. Please check back.